Scaling Next-Gen Materials in Fashion: An Executive Guide

By Katrin Ley Catharina Martinez-PardoMarc SchelenzPriyanka KhannaGeorgia ParkerTom Lange, and Elian Evans
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This content was developed in collaboration with Fashion for Good.

Materials lie at the heart of the fashion industry. They account for 92% of the industry’s total emissions through their extraction, processing, and production, and around 30% of cost of goods sold (COGS). 1 1 World Resources Institute and Apparel Impact Institute, Roadmap to Net Zero: Delivering Science-Based Targets in the Apparel Sector, 2021; BCG analysis. Next-generation materials present the opportunity to transform the industry’s environmental impact. However, many brands lack guidance and are unprepared for a material transition and how to drive adoption to unlock the benefits of these new materials.

A new report, Scaling Next-Gen Materials in Fashion: An Executive Guide, reveals that next-gen materials could represent 8% of the total fiber market by 2030, equivalent to approximately 13 million tons. Although a vast improvement from just 1% of the fiber market today, this growth may still fall short of industry demand due to mounting regulatory pressures, climate-related supply chain disruptions, and evolving consumer preferences.

The strategic adoption of next-gen materials could lead to an approximate 4% reduction in COGS over five years compared to inaction. This demonstrates the importance of transitioning to these materials for brands aiming to maintain their competitive edge.

Scaling with Three Levers

The scaling of next-generation materials is hindered by financial, technical, and operational obstacles. This report provides a strategic plan for industry leaders to navigate these challenges, emphasizing the need for both individual brand action and industry-wide collaboration. Three primary levers are identified for scaling next-gen materials and reducing the cost of transition:

This report, based on industry best practices and the successes of early movers, presents brands with a structured framework to act on these key levers and a pathway to address pressing challenges while driving measurable results.

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Successful implementation necessitates the integration of next-gen materials into core business strategies—aligning with financial goals to secure resources and drive accountability. This requires a comprehensive understanding of the current material mix, supply chain, and external ecosystem to mitigate risks and capitalize on opportunities for long-term resilience.

Once the foundation is in place, brands are positioned to activate the three levers—demand, cost, and capital—to drive scale and effectively bend the next-gen materials cost curve. This transformation can be achieved through individual or collective efforts with other brands and suppliers, or a combination of both approaches for maximum impact.

The time to act is now. The next-gen materials revolution is more than a challenge—it’s an unprecedented opportunity to lead. Brands that adopt next-gen materials today will not only unlock financial benefits (up to 4% of COGS savings within 5 years vs inaction) and drive long-term value but also position themselves as leaders in an evolving landscape.


About Fashion for Good
Fashion for Good is the pioneer of collaborative innovation in the fashion industry. Its Innovation Platform connects brands, manufacturers, innovators, and funders to jointly transform the industry and to bring new ideas and technologies from niche to norm. Fashion for Good’s programs are supported by founding partner Laudes Foundation, co-founder William McDonough and industry partners, adidas, Arvind Limited, BESTSELLER, Birla Cellulose, C&A, CHANEL, Inditex, Kering, Levi Strauss & Co., Norrøna, ON, Otto Group, Paradise Textiles, Patagonia, PDS Limited, PVH Corp., Reformation, Shahi Exports, Target, Teijin Frontier, and Zalando.

Authors

Managing Director, Fashion for Good

Katrin Ley

Managing Director, Fashion for Good

Managing Director & Partner

Catharina Martinez-Pardo

Managing Director & Partner
Düsseldorf

Managing Director & Partner

Marc Schelenz

Managing Director & Partner
London

Innovation Director - Scaling, Fashion for Good

Priyanka Khanna

Innovation Director - Scaling, Fashion for Good

Innovation Director - Validation, Fashion for Good

Georgia Parker

Innovation Director - Validation, Fashion for Good

Principal

Tom Lange

Principal
Hamburg

Senior Knowledge Analyst

Elian Evans

Senior Knowledge Analyst
Amsterdam

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